Flame is an optical effect, and how it shows depends on the light you’re using, the pearl’s surface, and how it's positioned. If the structure is strong, you’ll usually see it under different lighting setups. It’s the subtler patterns—especially in smaller or lighter-colored pearls—that need a more careful approach.

Use a Focused, Low-Angle Light
A single, focused light at a low angle often works best, especially for pearls with fine, silky flame. Flat, diffuse light tends to wash everything out. Overhead light—including direct sun—can also work well if the flame is bold. The light’s intensity and type matter more than angle alone.

Try Multiple Light Sources
Start with a daylight-equivalent light like a D65 to judge the color and luster. Then bring in a second light—maybe a pinpoint LED or even a small incandescent—to coax out the flame. Test a few positions. Some pearls look best under warm light, others in cool. Indirect sunlight can be great for photography, especially if you want to show the true color without losing flame detail.

Rotate the Pearl
Flame is not always visible from every angle. Slowly rotate the pearl under the light and watch for patterns that appear to shift and move. The finest specimens will have a consistent flame encircling the entire pearl.

Use Magnification
For pearls with very subtle flame, magnification can help. A 10x loupe or microscope reveals additional detail, especially in smaller pearls or those with more delicate structure.

Choose a Neutral Background
Use a light gray or black, non-reflective surface when examining the pearl. This helps to visually isolate the pearl, making it easier to clearly see both the color and flame.