Color
The most prized conch pearls display vibrant shades of pink and red. Colors ranging from bubblegum to fuchsia are highly collected with pearls showing a uniform hot pink to red being the most valuable. Other colors such as salmon, white, yellow, orange, beige, golden brown and chocolate brown are more common and can be attractive but typically command lower prices unless the pearl is unusually large or exceptional. While hot pink remains the standard for top value, market preferences can shift slightly depending on fashion trends and collector demand.

Natural conch pearls showing a range of body colors

Flame Structure
Flame is one of the most important factors in assessing conch pearl quality. A strong, well-defined flame adds depth, movement, and visual interest. The pattern can take on different forms—from fine, silky lines to bold, tiger-striped bands. Speckled or snowflake-like flame also occurs and can still be appealing, though generally less valuable.

Consistency plays a key role in how flame is judged. The most desirable pearls show a flame pattern that flows smoothly across the surface. When the direction of the flame shifts or becomes uneven, the visual effect is disrupted. This can prevent light from traveling evenly over the pearl and often detracts from its overall appeal and value.

Because flame is an optical effect, proper lighting and viewing angles are essential. Without the right setup, subtle flame can go unnoticed.

Conch pearls showing strong, directional flame. When aligned well, the flame flows smoothly across the surface and enhances both beauty and value.

Luster
Without nacre, conch pearls do not have a metallic or mirror-like shine. Instead, they display a soft, porcelain-like luster. The effect is subtle. It's more of a glow than a gleam. A smooth, even surface enhances this quality and can significantly improve the pearl’s overall value.

Shape and Size
Most conch pearls are oval or elliptical, but they can also be highly baroque. Perfect rounds are extremely rare and command the highest prices. Conch pearls are measured in carats, similar to colored gemstones, not in millimeters. Most fine conch weigh between 1 and 6 carats, while larger lower-quality pearls are commonly found. Fine-quality pink to red pearls over 10 carats are rare, and those over 20 are exceptionally uncommon. As with all pearls, value increases with size when all other factors remain consistent.

Surface Quality
Smooth surfaces with minimal blemishes improve a conch pearl’s overall appearance and help maximize the visibility of the flame pattern. Minor surface irregularities are common, but visible spots, discolorations, pits, and cracks can lower both visual appeal and structural integrity.

Market Pricing
Conch pearls are typically sold by carat weight, similar to colored gemstones. Pricing depends on a range of factors including color, color intensity, flame pattern, surface quality, size and shape. Because values fluctuate and exceptional pearls are rare, it’s important for buyers and sellers to stay current on market trends and consult reputable dealers for up-to-date information.