Working with conch pearls requires a bit of planning. They can't be easily drilled so showcasing them properly while maintaining security and protection is key. The setting should match the pearl—not the other way around.

Evaluating Blemishes
Many conch pearls will show blemishes, such as spots, irregular growth patterns, and discolorations. These features are generally stable but can worsen if the pearl is damaged or improperly cleaned. Acids, alcohol, and chlorine can accelerate surface deterioration, leaving the pearl dull or chalky. In some cases, polishing by an experienced professional may improve the appearance—but conch pearls should never be treated like traditional gemstones.

Consider Color Stability
Lighter-colored conch pearls, especially those in pale pink, may fade over time with exposure to sunlight. Pearls with more saturated tones—rich pinks or deep reds—tend to retain their color more reliably. When designing for long-term wear, especially in rings or pieces exposed to light, color stability should be part of the selection process. Paler pearls are typically less expensive and may not hold their appearance over time.

Avoid Drilling When Possible
Drilling conch pearls is risky. They do not handle heat well. Even slight temperature buildup during drilling can cause internal cracks. When drilling is necessary, it should be done with specialized equipment, variable-speed control, and a water slurry to cool the drill site. Only professionals with extensive experience working specifically with conch pearls should attempt it. In most cases, it's best to design the setting around the pearl without drilling.

Plan the Setting Carefully
Conch pearls can chip if excessive pressure is applied during setting. Chips often appear as small scoops or shell-like fractures, especially if the pearl has been mishandled. While conch pearls are not especially brittle, they are vulnerable to surface damage. Peg settings should only be used if the pearl has been professionally drilled. Rings present higher risk due to daily wear, so protective settings are essential. Prongs should be smooth, well-fitted, and supported by a stable seat.

Use Protective Designs
Settings that cradle or surround the pearl are ideal. Full bezels, recessed mounts, shadowbox styles, or tension-free pendants can help absorb shock and shield the pearl. Epoxy cushioning may be used if applied correctly and discreetly. Flame orientation should be considered during design. The strongest visual impact is achieved when the flame faces outward.

Select for Jewelry Use Thoughtfully
Not all conch pearls are good candidates for wear. Those with obvious surface blemishes, pitting, or signs of prior impact should be used in pieces that are less exposed, such as pendants or brooches. Visual inspection is critical. The presence of flame, color intensity, and overall shape should all be balanced with durability and design intent.

Final Thoughts
Working with conch pearls takes practice and patience. Since every pearl is unique, each presents an opportunity to creatively add value and showcase your design skills. Rather than forcing a pearl into a standard mount, let the gem guide your work.